CAIRO, CITY OF CULTURE (SHOCK)
We arrived at Cairo Airport at about 2 am on Saturday Morning. The Egyptians had a bus and breakfast waiting for us. The breakfast of juice and rolls with hindsight could be described as a last meal for the condemned. Firstly the girls were dropped off at their halls of residence and then the remaining males were driven the short few miles to the male halls. It was then that we realised what Cultureshock was. The cells that were to be our sleeping quarters were basic: a bed, a desk a chair and a cupboard with bugs thrown in for good measure. The window had wooden shutters and could be closed. If you were lucky, your light would work. The toilet facilities were to be our biggest shock: the latest in three-in-one equipment. You could shower, widdle and crap all at the same time. ant motorways patrolled the tiles. The water was cold and undrinkable and there was no toilet paper. The idea of saving a rainforest by wiping your bottom with your hand did not appeal, especially when your innards decided they couldn't cope with the food. Possibly that was why the water had so much chlorine in it: to disinfect yourself afterwards. Hankies and toilet rolls were coveted more than any other time in our lives.
Outside, crickets chirped rhythmically and the mosquitoes buzzed. Scrawny cats and dogs wandered the complex as did the bureaucrats who ran the place. At night the air was cool but dusty. Birds cried out to remind us that we were abroad as if we didn't know. Sleeping was difficult.
The morning started early as at about 5 am there was a tremendous cacophony of noise as the muezzin brought the city to prayer. By the time we rose, the city was alive and as noisy as normal. Taxis drive with their horns connected to the accelerator and street markings, such as one-way are acknowledged on a voluntary basis (in Egypt, haggling is the means of deciding the cost of a journey, so rarely do you accept the first offer).
Food at our halls in Cairo was basic in comparison to the feasts to come later in Alexandria. Once we had established the concept of quantity ie not too much or too little, we enjoyed chicken and kofta (the latter looks a bit like a turd but tastes slightly better), dry finger rolls and either mango or guava juice. The juice was so sickly sweet due to a high percentage of sugar preservative we more often than not would partake of the Sprite, 7UP, Coca Cola or Orange available for next to nothing (approx 40 piasters per bottle equivalent to 10p in sterling). there was some variety to the meals and we were grateful for something but again this was part of the culture shock.
Trips during our first stay in Cairo included the yawnsome Museum where our guide seemed to be of interest only to two plump American tourists who had tagged along; to a country club, briefly, before we got thrown out because the girls dared to bare their shoulders and belly buttons; to the citadel and various mosques; to the smelly bazaar, where the locals are dumbstruck by female, white flesh and stop to stare and occasionally grope and where haggling is an art form. We saw the melodramatic Sound and Light Show at the pyramids and the Pharaonic Village complete with Ancient brick-building peasants who smile to camera and don't have Equity cards.
However, the highlight of Cairo for us must have been the visits to the Nile Hilton Hotel. It had everything: sit-down toilets with hot water and toilet paper, a bank to change our travellers' cheques if we had the odd two hours to kill, a counter which sold delicious, mouth-watering cakes and, of course, a bar which sold alcohol. Many a happy hour was spent there. Indeed, it was as close as Cairo ever got to Alexandria's standards.
FUN, FEAST AND FRIENDS IN ALEXANDRIA
On Wed.13th, we travelled north by bus to Alex, a journey of three hours through hot desert. Thankfully the bus air-conditioning saved us from a baking. It was cooler in Alexandria than in Cairo thanks to the sea breeze. Things were also more relaxed, with both sexes sleeping in the same building although in different wings (safe sex in Egypt is where the couple not only sleep in different beds, they sleep in different buildings). Alexandrian students had been assigned to us and, in the short time we got to know them, we became very good friends. They liked to have fun and would sing and clap the latest hits in the Egyptian charts. Ghada even attempted to teach us some Arabic. Our time in Alexandria was made more enjoyable because of their friendship. They gave the trip a party atmosphere. It was very sad when we had to leave them to return to Cairo, although as a surprise Hashem and the two Adels later journeyed down to see us off at the airport. It was with these people that the deepest bonds were made.
In Alexandria, meals were savoured. Breakfast was from 10-12, lunch 3-5 and dinner any time after 9pm. The croissant breakfasts at the Trianon overwhelmed the taste buds. In general eating in Alexandria was a pleasure rather than a necessity. they even had a Wimpy. Returning to the meagre rations of Cairo's Halls was a major disappointment.
The private beaches we were taken to, as opposed to the rather dirty public ones, were beautiful: white sands and an aquamarine sea, a blazing hot sun and an opportunity for the girls to wear bikinis without offending anyone. The only down point of the beach visit was when Mr Summers fainted, due to the heat, and split his forehead. Later, he went to the hospital and we heard that he had had a brain haemorrhage and would require an operation. We were all very anxious for him and Mrs Summers, but for some, the anguish was compounded by the memories of personal losses. As it turned out, we were heartened to hear that Mr Summers was well enough to make his own way to the plane as he flew back to Glasgow for the op. We had all taken pleasure from his war stories and from the company of both of them and their absence seemed slightly disconcerting when we returned to Cairo.
In Alexandria, as well as the above, we visited the grounds of the palaces of King Farouk, the Pharco industrial plant (the educational bit of the holiday) and experienced ab Egyptian wedding. But most of all it was the company of the students and others we shall remember.
PAROLE OVER: BACK TO PRISON
Returning to the halls in Cairo, you could have cut the enthusiasm with a soggy condom. I wasn't that we didn't enjoy Cairo but that we missed Alexandria. In the few remaining days we enjoyed a trip on the Nile, complete with belly dancers, professional and amateur; a return to the pyramids, including Indiana-Jones-ing it inside one, although Indy usually found more than an empty rectangular orifice and wasn't touched up by the natives; various trips round papyrus galleries, where the quantities purchased were usually proportional to the number of free drinks they gave us - until our money ran out. We also spent the last night at dinner with old Prof Fawzi and family, along with the British Consul and his wife.
Obviously, not everything about the trip has been mentioned; everyone who was there has their own personal recollections but it does give a flavour of the visit. A special thanks must be extended to Dr Haddi for all his efforts both before and during the trip to make it the experience it was. Although we sometimes never saw eye-to-eye over what we should be doing and didn't fully appreciate the cultural differences until it was too late, we all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. The memories have lasted a great deal longer than the diarrhoea.
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| The image that inspired the illustration |
And more holiday snaps cribbed from FB:
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